DAY 2 • NORTH CAROLINA & BEYOND
The alarm on my iPhone allows me to “sleep in” a bit today. It goes off at 4:30AM instead of 4:00. Just another reason why I find myself traveling alone 95% of the time. Nobody ever seems to want to get up to photograph the sunrise with me…even in the midst of a spectacular Blue Ridge road trip.
I push the button on the in-room coffee maker and enjoy a surprisingly good cup of Joe as I carry my belongings out to the bike. I push a second button…the starter switch on my BMW. It springs to life with the soft, gentle sound of a well-oiled sewing machine. I feel a momentary sense of remorse and ask forgiveness for all the times in the past when I fired up my “Loud Pipes Save Lives” American V-Twin motorcycles in motel parking lots in the wee hours of the morning.
Every Day Above Ground
There’s an old saying that says “Every day above ground is a good one.” I’ve modified that statement to include the addendum “Every day on two wheels is a great one”. I’m alive and I’m in the saddle. This day has all the makings of a great one.
I leave the parking area of Oak Haven Lodge, being sure to deploy only my rear brake, as I cautiously descend the deep pile of bluestone gravel they call a motorcycle-friendly driveway. When both tires are firmly on the pavement of Webbs Mill Road I roll on the throttle and head for the parkway six miles south. The Blue Ridge road trip continues.
My Happy Place
The posts in the Roadcraft USA blog and the images in the travel gallery of my personal website are testament to my love for sunrises…especially those that reveal themselves in mountainous regions. Less than 10 miles from my motel room I find myself already standing beside my bike. I’m at “The Saddle Overlook”, elevation 3,400 feet, located at Milepost 168.
In the distance, the mountains stand sentinel, their ancient contours cloaked in a delicate blue hue. A soft veil of mist shrouds their slopes, lending an aura of mystery and anticipation to the scene. With each passing moment, the landscape awakens a little bit more. The distant valleys which were draped in shadow minutes ago, come alive with a soft palette of greens and browns.
I stand in quiet contemplation for a moment before The Blue Ridge Parkway, a simple ribbon of asphalt that winds through this enchanted territory, beckons me onward. As I leave this scenic overlook behind, I carry with me the feeling that I am no more than a temporary observer in the vast realm of existence.
Blue Skies!!!
This Blue Ridge road trip continues and, for the first time in six days, I find myself staring at a bright blue sky. Soft white cirrus clouds have displaced the smoke that has invaded the region over recent days. The temperature is hovering at around 70 degrees Fahrenheit and there is barely a wisp of wind. This is the kind of day God had in mind when he created the motorcycle.
I will pull off the road again in just 8 miles. Once again, my pursuit of photography tends to discourage many riders from joining me on the road. They want to “Go, Go, Go” all the time. I rode with that mindset for far too many years. These days I take plenty of time to stop and absorb the territories I’m blessed to be riding through.
Mabry Mill • Milepost 176
Mabry Mill is a historic gristmill known for its picturesque setting and rich history. Built in the early 1900s by Ed Mabry, the mill served as a central hub for the surrounding community. In 1938, the mill was purchased by the National Park Service and incorporated into the newly established Blue Ridge Parkway. It underwent restoration to preserve its original charm and showcase traditional Appalachian craftsmanship. The mill’s scenic beauty and cultural significance make it a beloved landmark and worthy attraction on your Blue Ridge road trip.
Go early if you want to get a photograph like the one above. Mabry Mill officially opens daily at 10:00AM. It is one of the most popular attractions on The Blue Ridge Parkway, often hosting hundreds of visitors at a time. I arrived at 7:00AM on a Sunday and there was only one car, and one other motorcycle, in the parking lot. I had the place to myself…or so I thought.
Enter the protagonist…a bicyclist with a zest for adventure and an utter disregard for this photographer’s carefully arranged composition. The sweaty, two-wheeled intruder assumed a position between my tripod-mounted camera and the mill, blocking the very essence of the sought-after shot. Polite requests, disguised as friendly suggestions, fell upon deaf ears as she used this time and place to consume two entire 20 ounce bottles of Coca-Cola. Amidst the intrusion, a profound realization takes hold of me. The unpredictable whims of life often gift us with the most unexpected tales and humorous anecdotes. I feel better already just for sharing this episode with my readers.
Puckett Cabin • Milepost 190
Just 14 miles later I’m stopping again…this time in front of Puckett Cabin. Why? Because it’s there. According to the roadside plaque, the historic site stands in tribute to the legendary midwife Orlean Hawks Puckett. The story is told that when Puckett was in her 50s, a neighbor went into labor and no doctor could be found.
This began her career as a midwife, and for the next nearly fifty years, she traveled the Virginia countryside, never charging for her services. Known for her compassion and skill she never lost a mother or a baby in more than 1,000 deliveries. Orlean delivered her last baby at age 94, and died in 1939. The cabin was her last home.
Roller Coaster Ride
Your Blue Ridge road trip will change character for a short time beyond this point. You’ll find yourself descending from the mountainous elevations, off the curvy roads, and onto long straight flat stretches of farmland through The Great Valley of Virginia. The 45MPH speed limit which seemed “reasonable” up to this point suddenly feels like a snails pace.
This fertile agricultural region is known for its dairy farms, livestock production, and cultivation of crops like soybeans, hay, and tobacco. I’m betting it could be a fine revenue-producing area through speed enforcement, but the fact of the matter is that I never saw a single law enforcement officer or park ranger over this entire two day burn on the BRP.
As you approach and cross the border into North Carolina your Blue Ridge road trip will resume its original feel. You’ll find yourself riding into densely forested areas, then climbing, once again, up into mountains.
The Linn Cove Viaduct • Milepost 304
Yes, you read that correctly. We’ve put down over 100 miles since leaving Orlean Puckett’s cabin. Time flies when you’re having fun…and when the road is straight, level and nearly deserted. In no time at all I was rolling up to the Linn Cove Viaduct, an iconic structure located along your Blue Ridge road trip route.
The viaduct’s construction began in 1979 and was completed in 1987. It was the last major section to be completed on the Blue Ridge Parkway. It stretches for more than 1,200 feet along the side of Grandfather Mountain, bridging a rugged gorge while offering stunning views of the surrounding landscape.
The viaduct’s curving structure and panoramic vistas have made it a popular attraction for visitors on the Blue Ridge Parkway. There is a pedestrian walkway that allows visitors to walk or bicycle across. It has become an iconic landmark, blending harmoniously with its surroundings while offering an unforgettable experience for travelers along the scenic route.
Crabtree Falls • Milepost 339
Crabtree Falls is located about 45 miles north of Asheville, North Carolina. It marks the last stretch of the Parkway through the Blue Ridge Mountains before it turns westward into the Black, Craggie and Pisgah mountain ranges.
The falls are accessed by woodland hiking trails with two options: an easier hike to and from the bottom of the falls on the same trail, with a steady descent and return climb; or a much more strenuous loop trail that climbs to a ridge above the falls. I peeled off my clunky motorcycle boots in the trailhead parking area and replaced them with my favorite pair of NuBalance walking shoes. You can tell from the picture below that I opted for the easier of the two hiking trails.
As I gaze upon this spectacle, a medley of emotions washes over me. A cool mist caresses my face, a gentle reminder of the vitality of this pristine wilderness. The rocks, steadfast and ancient, bear the scars of countless years. Each stone, polished smooth by the perpetual flow, carries within it a story of endurance and resilience. Nature, in its infinite wisdom, bestows upon us sanctuaries such as these for a reason. Make it a priority in your life to spend some time in them.
Something In The Air Tonight
When I emerge from my hike in the woods I realized that it wasn’t just the shade of the trees keeping me cool. The blue skies had disappeared giving way to dense cloud cover. I took a quick peek at the weather and radar apps on my phone and didn’t like what I saw. Large bands of big storms were working their way east towards this evening’s Knoxville, Tennessee destination.
The storms predicted for later this evening had the word “Severe” attached to them. There was also the mention of words such as “Tornado” and “Golf Ball-sized Hail”. I decided right then and there to abandon my Blue Ridge road trip and head as quickly as possible to the MSTA (Motorcycle Sport Touring Association) rally where I was expected to arrive later this evening.
Technical Glitch • My Fault
I quickly typed the hotel address into my Garmin Zumo motorcycle-specific GPS unit. I forgot that its preferences were set to search out those wonderful “Twisty” backroads that motorcyclists drool over. In previous blog posts I’ve discussed the world-renowned “Tail of The Dragon” and other “Hero” roads that I call “Biker Tourist Traps”. I’ve said it before: There are so many unknown roads in this part of the country that are equally as challenging without all the hype, crowds and law enforcement presence that plagues the “mainstream” destinations. The GPS put me on one of them at this somewhat critical juncture.
After doubling me back five miles on the Blue Ridge Parkway to Little Switzerland, NC I followed “Dumbo’s” instructions. If you’ve read my Amazon #1 Best-selling motorcycle travel book, Road Work: Images and Insights of a Modern Day Explorer you know that “Dumbo” is the name I have affectionately bestowed upon my GPS receiver. As you can certainly tell, it is not a term of endearment. I don’t always have the greatest respect for its decisions.
Welcome to route 226A in North Carolina! The image above shows approximately a 4-5 mile stretch of this wicked byway. The graph at the bottom of the map shows that riding this beast includes a 2,000 foot elevation drop over those 4 or 5 miles. It makes “The Dragon” seem like child’s play.
UPDATE: This post has been edited thanks to a reader’s comment and a little research. Apparently this road, Route 226A, is not an “unknown” road. It is part of another popular motorcycling destination called “The Diamondback” which is composed of NC 226A, US 221, Toms Creek Road and NC 80. Something told me this was just too good a road to be a casual discovery.
Back On The Slab
After conquering “Dumbo’s” wild backroad recommendation I spotted a sign pointing towards I-40. I stopped at the first rest area on the interstate and donned my Nelson Rigg Stormrider rain suit.
Not a minute too soon, I might add. This Blue Ridge road trip was about to get damp. I was hoping that I could outrace the storms and arrive in Knoxville unscathed. I was wrong. As an accomplished motorcyclist, I revel in the freedom that the open road bestows upon me. With the sun-kissed wind in my face and the hum of my bike beneath me, I embark on journeys that often embrace the promise of perfect summer days. But alas, when the heavens open up, those idyllic rides can transform into real battles against the elements.
Truth-be-told this wasn’t an awful rain event. The biggest safety challenge came from the legions of automobile drivers that have no business being behind the wheel in the rain. The rain stopped after about 30 miles and the sun came screaming out again. I rode up to the entrance of The Holiday Inn Hotel & Conference Center looking pretty silly wearing my rain suit. The windshield of the bike was still covered with raindrops and I sat there for a moment wringing the water out of my riding gloves. I didn’t feel nearly as silly after a bystander asked, in all seriousness, if I had encountered bad weather.
Mother Nature’s Encore
The weather God’s weren’t quite done with Knoxville yet. My bike was unloaded and safely parked in the parking lot reserved for the hundreds of motorcyclists attending the MSTA event. My Blue Ridge road trip was over. I took one last look up at the sky, which was growing ever darker by the minute, before retiring indoors. I was very happy to be at my destination earlier than originally planned.
The Mayor of Knoxville, Tennessee took to social media channels to alert citizens of the storm’s wrath. Forty miles north of the city a tornado touched down and caused severe damage to buildings, homes and vehicles. Thankfully, no loss of life was reported.
Up Next
In the very near future I’ll be preparing a blog post about the MSTA National Rally here in Knoxville along with some coverage of the riding that was done in the surrounding areas. Those excursions took me to varied single-day destinations including The Foothills of Eastern Tennessee and Norris Dam State Park. As always we welcome your comments below. Click Here to view an interactive visual index page where you can quickly browse through all of the great features that are published on the Roadcraft USA blog. Be sure to subscribe to Roadcraft USA. We send out monthly email notifications about new features that hit the blog.
A bit over 350 miles traversed today…most of it glorious!
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