LIFE IN THE FAST LANE • LONG DISTANCE TOURING ON A SPORT BIKE

Tail of the Dragon fast lane photograph action

The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn’t any other test.  If the machine produces tranquillity it’s right. If it disturbs you it’s wrong; until either the machine or your mind is changed.”

– Robert M. Persig

The quote opening this post is from the classic book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. An Inquiry into Values”.  I also used this quote to start chapter 9 of my book Road Work: Images and Insights of a Modern Day Explorer.  Why?  Because it is a truth that simply can’t be denied…especially by any motorcyclist.

Over the past four decades, and more than a quarter million miles in the saddle, I’ve owned a number of different motorcycles.  I’ve enjoyed most of them, loved some, and only really regretted one.  At times I’ve had more than one bike in the barn because, as you probably understand, different bikes do different things well.  There is no such thing as the perfect bike, a reality so profound that I devoted an entire chapter of my book solely to the topic.

Harley Davidson and American -Twin choppers photographed by professional motorsports photographer
Some of the “Bar Blasters” that shared garage space with my ElectraGlides®

Over a period of nearly 25 years I rode a number of different Harley-Davidson® motorcycles, piling up the most mileage on three different ElectraGlide® touring models.  These were wonderful machines for eating up long stretches of interstate reliably and comfortably.  Sadly, a few years back I started to suffer from a degenerative condition which has left my lower right leg weak and my right foot without feeling.  It was becoming increasingly more challenging for me to push the big 900+ pound American V-Twin out of parking spots and such.  I was faced with a difficult decision.  Give up riding or ride something smaller.

Harley Davidson touring bikes on the road adventure journeys without limits
A couple of my Harley-Davidson® touring bikes

Giving up riding after nearly 40 years was out of the question.  It is truly a big part of who I am.  Some folks really do “Live To Ride”.  So the search for a suitable, smaller bike began.  In the fall of 2017 I located a brand new 2016 “leftover” BMW F800 GT® at MAX BMW in South Windsor, Connecticut.  I did a little research online and made an appointment to visit the dealership for a thorough test ride.  Little did I know that it would be the final ride I took on my ElectraGlide®.  I traded the old “Geezer Glide” in on the sporty German machine, rode it home that day and haven’t looked back since.

I’m not going to tell you it was love at first sight.  I had grown accustomed to the comfort of the big touring bike and was a bit unnerved on the ride home, getting blown all over the highway by wind gusts that wouldn’t even make the heavyweight Harley flinch.  The small windscreen did little to protect my upper body and face, pain was developing between my shoulder blades from leaning over the low slung handlebars and the saddle had me longing to find a nice comfortable concrete park bench to park my butt on.  I knew that some compromises were inevitable and that some things would have to be changed to make this a viable long distance mount.

BMW F800GT in stock configuration image before farkles and customization for touring
2016 BMW F800GT® in its factory stock form

Let the farkle-ing begin! (Harley riders use the word “customize”.  BMW owners say “Farkle”).  The origin of the word Farkle is in dispute.  Some say it is a combination of the words function and sparkle.  Others say it is an acronym for Fancy Accessory, Really Kool, Likely Expensive.  Either one works for me…I just knew some changes were in order.

The F800 GT® was marketed by BMW as a sport touring bike…which is to say it didn’t do either (sport or tour) exceptionally well.  It’s that old “jack of all trades” syndrome.  A fine compromise, but the word compromise can’t play too big a role in the life of a long distance rider.  I got to work immediately.

First order of business was to raise the handlebars up a couple of inches to a less aggressive but substantially more comfortable height.  Compared to the American V-Twin aftermarket, with thousand page thick catalogs full of bolt on accessories and shiny chrome trinkets, the availability of BMW aftermarket parts is somewhat limited.  After scouring all the internet forums I decided on a set of bar risers made in Germany by Verholen.  Installation required re-routing the throttle and clutch cables and all of the electrical handlebar switch wiring; along with extending the front wheel brake line; but the result was well worth the cost and effort.  I would now adopt a much more comfortable riding position for long days in the saddle.

handlebar risers for improved ergonomics motorcycle touring on a BMW F800GT sport touring bike
Verholen handlebar risers installed on a BMW F800GT®

Speaking of saddles, the lean and mean stock BMW one had to go.  I replaced it with a touring model made by Sargent Cycle Products.  This seat is extremely comfortable, features a nice sized tool compartment on its underside and is even offered in an electrically heated version.

Sargent seat saddle BMW F800GT motorcycle long range day long comfort heated tool kit
Sargent Cycle Products touring saddle for BMW F800GT®

The tiny stock windshield looks great for a sport bike, but does little to afford the protection needed for a long distance rider.  I replaced the stock windshield with the Puig touring model with a light grey tint.  This screen is awesome!  Not only does it take all of the wind pressure off the rider’s chest and face, but literally sheds water around the rider when riding in the rain.  Even in torrential downpours you stay dry…providing you keep moving, of course.

Puig tinted windshield for BMW F800GT sport touring motorcycle
Puig tinted touring windscreen for BMW F800GT®

Even though this particular bike was outfitted with BMW’s Premium Package (including Electronic Suspension Adjustment, Automatic Stability Control, Traction Control, ABS Brakes, Heated Handgrips, Center Stand, etc.) the F800 GT® was never offered with electronic cruise control; an absolute necessity when riding long distances.  Aftermarket solutions are known to be very expensive, difficult to install and marginally reliable.  I opted instead to install a Kaoko throttle lock.  Some pundits argue that throttle locks are inherently unsafe, but after tens of thousands of miles I have found it to be very intuitive to operate safely.  The Kaoko unit, though pricy, is extremely well made and esthetically perfect.  Looking at it one would think that it is a factory-installed item.

kakapo throttle lock cruise control for BMW F800 motorcycles
Kaoko throttle lock in place of electronic cruise control

The side cases (panniers) and top case are the factory BMW offerings.  Though noticeably smaller than the ones I’d grown accustomed to on the Harley they hold everything I need for serious touring as well as the photography I enjoy when out on the road. (See my previous post, The Right Stuff • What’s In My Camera Bag, for detailed photos of how my expensive camera gear is packed for motorcycling adventures).  A model-specific BMW Motorrad® tank bag sits atop the air box and a First Gear Torrent® waterproof duffle bag, strapped on the passenger pillion, rounds out my storage needs.

First Gear Torrent waterproof duffle bag for serious foul weather riders
First Gear Torrent waterproof duffle shown in 25 liter size

I also relocated the factory BMW GPS Navigation unit (manufactured by Garmin®) to a RAM® mount on the left side of the handlebar.  This is now in a much more convenient and viewable position than the stock mount, which had to be replaced anyway when I swapped out the risers.

BMW F800 at Seneca Rocks West Virginia fully loaded for long distance riding adventure
The F800GT® fully outfitted for serious long distance touring

So what’s it like touring on this bike?  It is absolutely incredible!  It took a little time and quite a few modifications, but I’m in love with this little machine.  Do I miss the big Harley?  Sometimes, yeah.  I miss the luxury of lumbering along the interstate in the comfort of a La-Z-Boy® recliner.  I miss the rock solid weight on windy days.  I miss having a stereo system built into the fairing; a problem I’ve solved by installing a Cardo Packtalk Bold® communicator with JBL speakers in my helmet.  It operates via Bluetooth and can access every one of the 5,000 songs on my iPhone with great fidelity.  Sometimes I even miss the rash bark of those Harley straight pipes…especially when an inattentive cager is drifting into my lane.  Most of all I miss having my girlfriend on the back of the bike.  She doesn’t have the same affection for this new bike that I do and has chosen not to join me on rides any longer.  For that I am really sad.  We travelled tens of thousands of miles together on a couple of my Harleys and made a whole lot of wonderful memories, but unfortunately necessity dictated this change to a smaller bike.

What did I gain?  A bunch.  A whole bunch!  This bike is a true high performance machine.  My lifestyle is a lot less hurried these days and I choose to take the roads less traveled as much as possible.  I am no longer an interstate warrior with a limited amount of time to get to places quickly. I much prefer the scenic back roads to the super slabs.  When you get into the mountains or hit the twisties it is a whole different animal.  This bike eats up the pavement with speed and precision, lending itself to a much more “spirited” riding experience than any behemoth big twin touring bike could ever hope to offer.  I know.  I’ve ridden them both.  A lot.

BMW F800 GT sport touring bike ripping it up with a Honda VFR800 on twisties
A BMW F800GT® and a Honda VFR800® ripping it up on a twisty road

The only question now is what the future holds.  When I bought this bike I said it would probably be my last motorcycle; but I had said that about my last Harley, too.  I’m truly of the mindset that “You don’t give up riding when you get old.  You get old when you give up riding”.  I’ve been racking up the miles on this machine and, sadly, BMW doesn’t offer this mid-sized sport touring model any longer.  It has been replaced with their new F900XR® model, a worthy successor that offers 15 additional horsepower (a very exciting prospect on a bike this size), adaptive LED headlamps, a TFT display, BMW’s proprietary Wonder Wheel controller and electronic cruise control.  Furthermore, BMW is billing this bike as an Adventure-Sport model that can be easily fitted with the durable and functional aluminum luggage cases normally seen on ADV bikes.  

BMW F900XR in adventure touring configuration image
A Photoshop mockup of the BMW F900XR with aluminum luggage cases & tall tinted windscreen

The only ‘downside’ I see with the new model is that its final drive is a chain, not a belt.  I’ve ridden nothing but belt drive bikes since the mid 90’s and have never, ever had a drive belt failure or even the slightest maintenance issues.  I know chains have been around much longer and are easier to replace than belts, but it does kind of feel like a step backwards to me.  I’ve gotten real used to the no fuss quietness and cleanliness of belt driven bikes.

So…What are some of you folks touring on these days?  Anyone else out there doing long distance touring on a sport bike?  Leave a comment below and be sure to subscribe to Roadwork USA for notifications, breaking news and special offers.

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18 thoughts on “LIFE IN THE FAST LANE • LONG DISTANCE TOURING ON A SPORT BIKE”

  1. Your motorcycle experience and Motorcycles has been very similar to mine, however, I’m about 75,000 miles shy of your quarter million miles ridden. I currently enjoy a 2016 BMW R 1200 RTW, and a 2018 BMW R 1200 GSW. Both are excellent sport touring motorcycles. I enjoy my RT for longer chips of 10 days or greater, and love my GS for those chips where I’ll be riding a lot of mountain roads and Curvy secondary roads. My RT currently has 40,000 miles on the clock and has taken me across the USA twice, around Lake superior, and to Nova Scotia.

    I think both the RT or GS standard model would be great replacements to your 800 GT. They are probably about 100 pounds heavier than your 800 but would offer electronic cruise control, shaft drive and easy maintenance of the BMW Boxster motor.

    Well I’ve never owned one the new Triumph 900 GT Pro might be in other nice replacement for your 800 GT, however it would also come with a chain drive which I’ve never had to deal with ad I’ve always owned bikes with Shaft drive.

    Ride Safe!

    1. Great article as always. I have two bikes in my garage and needed to make both of them fit my 6’5” self. First is a Road King which I used for traveling and mile munching. Aftermarket stuff includes a Klokwerks windshield, Tallboy saddle, daymaker headlights, Garmin GPS and a Harley tour pack. I now use it only for short distance riding and my wife will ride on the back for local rides (she loves the rumble). she’s not up for days-long distance riding.
      My other bike is a BMW K1600GTL which I use for cross-country mile munching. I swapped the windshield for a tinted 7Jurock, Russell Daylong saddle and highway pegs. Also put Clearwater Erica lights, Billie brake lights, reflective film on the saddlebags, and swapped the Nav VI for a Garmin Zumo XT mounted in the same slot with an adapter. I love riding it and it is very capable for both touring and canyon blasting ( as much as I’m capable), and I can ride 600 mile days and still want more. It’s that good. On my Road King, I was done at 400 miles.
      Fortunately at 69, I don’t need to downsize yet, but when I do, I like your choices. In my case, I might have more of a challenge fitting on a smaller bike. maybe a BMW RS or Honda VFR or triumph Tiger 900?

    2. Great article as always. I have two bikes in my garage and needed to make both of them fit my 6’5” self. First is a Road King which I used for traveling and mile munching. Aftermarket stuff includes a Klokwerks windshield, Tallboy saddle, daymaker headlights, Garmin GPS and a Harley tour pack. I now use it only for short distance riding and my wife will ride on the back for local rides (she loves the rumble). she’s not up for days-long distance riding.
      My other bike is a BMW K1600GTL which I use for cross-country mile munching. I swapped the windshield for a tinted 7Jurock, Russell Daylong saddle and highway pegs. Also put Clearwater Erica lights, Billie brake lights, reflective film on the saddlebags, and swapped the Nav VI for a Garmin Zumo XT mounted in the same slot with an adapter. I love riding it and it is very capable for both touring and canyon blasting ( as much as I’m capable), and I can ride 600 mile days and still want more. It’s that good. On my Road King, I was done at 400 miles.
      Fortunately at 69, I don’t need to downsize yet, but when I do, I like your choices. In my case, I might have more of a challenge fitting on a smaller bike. maybe a BMW RS or Honda VFR or triumph Tiger 900?

  2. The Motorcycle Sport Touring Association (MSTA) is a 40 year old club with over 5,000 members all over the US, Canada, and other parts of the world that is all about touring on sport and sport-touring bikes. Many of us have done similar modifications to our bikes to make them more comfortable or better handling. Many of us are also mindful of the need to make accommodations for advancing age and/or medical conditions. Myself, I have also moved from bigger bikes to smaller bikes and currently sport-tour on a Kawasaki Versy 650 LT, and just purchased a Ninja 400 for backroad blasts around Kentucky. While I’ve never owned a big HD, Goldwing, or the like, I have ridden them and enjoyed them for what they are. I have owned liter bikes designed for spirited riding and for sport-touring, and have enjoyed them too, especially when my wife wanted to ride along. She has no desire to ride any longer, so we purchased a convertible Mini Cooper and it serves as our “two-up motorcycle” now. But when it’s just me, I’ll gladly hop on my Versy and hit the backroads.

  3. I currently own a 2018 Ducati Multistrada 1200s. Unfortunately I now find it too tall and heavy for my comfort. To continue riding I had to do some down sizing / compromising. After month of intensive research I’ve just acquired an immaculate low mileage 2017 F800GT. It ticks every box, and will extend my riding career by another 5+ years. My first BMW, and probably my last bike. For my needs and purposes this is THE perfect bike.

    1. You’re gonna’ love it, Trevor. It won’t be as quick or off-road capable as your Duc, but if it keeps you in the saddle it’s all good. By the way…I’m on my second “Last Bike” and looking towards the next one. LOL.

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  12. The reason no belts is that a kicked up rock can get in the belt and snap it.
    That leaves chain or shaft drive. Chain of lighter, cheaper (to produce) but if sprockets and chain are replaced together at recommended intervals, the difference isn’t that much.
    The trade off is maintenance.

    1. I’ve heard of that happening, Brian. Personally I have never experienced it…and I’ve ridden nothing but belt drive bikes for almost 30 years now. Never had a belt failure…even on belts with more than 70,000 miles on them. Had one shaft drive bike before that. Nothing with a chain in over 30 years. The “New” BMW model I’m looking at requires a chain with its added HP and torque. Guess I’ll have to “take a step backwards” if I make the switch. Thanks for commenting.

  13. Hi, loved reading your post. I have a 2013 BMW F800GT with the exact same changes except for the seat. I love the bike. Does everything I need it to do and is still fun. Coming from a naked bike, it is much more comfortable and you’re much more protected from the elements with the fairing and touring screen.

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