In a previous feature we guided you up the northeast coast of The United States to the Maine state line. In this post we will share some of the attractions that make Maine, “The Vacation State”, one of our favorite “go to” travel destinations of all time.
The Piscataqua River is the official boundary between the states of New Hampshire and Maine, and you can make your crossing at any of the three bridges that span that waterway between Portsmouth, New Hampshire and Kittery, Maine. Kittery had been a regular stop of mine on quite a few occasions in the past; back in the days when I was an avid fly fisherman. The Piscataqua river offers truly great salt water fly fishing opportunities for Morone Saxatilis, better known in the northeast as Striped Bass, or in The Mid-Atlantic/Chesapeake region as Rockfish.
From late spring through early summer these migratory gamefish withdraw from their winter hibernation upstream in the Piscataqua River and head out to The Atlantic Ocean, providing anglers with a great opportunity to tangle with fish of all sizes; from smaller “schoolie” size bass to large mature fish of 40 pounds or more. I had the distinct privilege of fishing with an extraordinary guide, Mark Drummond, aboard his self-built, custom open boat “Jack”, which was moored in Kittery. It is my understanding that Mark has since taken seriously ill and is no longer fishing The Piscataqua. Saltwater fly fishermen that are looking for nearby guided angling opportunities are encouraged to seek out Captain Robin Calitri of Seacoast Fly Fishing. Robin is a veteran Long Island guide, whose boat I fished from back home, in the waters off Montauk Point. He has relocated to the seacoast area and is based on the New Hampshire side of The Piscataqua, in the town of Newington; just a short run upriver from Kittery.
When in Kittery I stay at The Coachman Inn, a perfectly adequate, traditional motor court style motel which I prefer for a number of reasons. First, I get to park my motorcycle right outside my door, making it convenient to load and unload. Secondly, this style of lodging lends itself to meeting other travelers, by having lounge chairs outside your room where you can meet and mingle with other friendly guests.
Shopping is a big attraction in town as it is home to The Kittery Outlets; a facility that is over one mile long and includes more than 120 shops including the legendary Kittery Trading Post. Bear in mind that such a facility comes with the commensurate traffic congestion, so unless you’re heading out at sunrise to go fishing, you’ll probably find yourself moving quite slowly through this area.
Twenty miles north of Kittery on US Route 1 you will roll into the town of Wells, Maine; home of yet another great eatery discovered on The Food Channel’s Diners, Drive Ins and Drives program. The Maine Diner is extraordinary any time of day. For breakfast try the Lobster Benedict or The Myles Henry Downeast Benedict (a delicious local variation served atop cod cakes in lieu of an English Muffin). The lobster pie is a truly exceptional dinner offering, but skip Guy Fieri’s recommendation of the house seafood chowder. Opt instead for the She Crab Soup, loaded with Atlantic Rock Crabmeat and a hint of sherry. It is off-the-charts delish! Even if you’re using the interstate (I-95) get off at Wells to visit this joint. It’s only a mile or two off the highway and well worth the short detour.
Thirty five miles north of Wells you enter the city of Portland, Maine. I normally steer clear of any big cities when I’m traveling, but on one occasion I was ‘forced’ to stay in Portland. I was on my way to Nova Scotia and The Canadian Maritimes, and would be taking the high speed catamaran ferry, The Cat, to get there. The Cat ran out of Bar Harbor, Maine on my previous visit to Nova Scotia, but had been relocated to Portland in an attempt to elicit more tourist interest. Can’t blame them…the ferry is partially funded by the Canadian Government in an effort to boost tourism. The ferry ceased operation altogether during the COVID-19 crisis, but is slated to be up and running again in 2022…once again leaving from its former berth in Bar Harbor.
If you wind up staying in Portland you should enjoy a lobster roll at The Lobster Shack at Two Lights. It’s not that their lobster roll is better than any others you will enjoy in Maine; but the view from the outdoor eating promenade is outstanding. Both Portland Head Lighthouse and Cape Elizabeth Lighthouse can be seen from your Atlantic Ocean outdoor waterfront table (your basic umbrella-covered picnic bench, to be more accurate).
Your next noteworthy stop, less than 20 miles north on Route 1, is Freeport, Maine. The watchword here is again shopping. This quaint city of about 9,000 residents is home to numerous little bistros, boutiques, galleries and curiosity shops; but its main claim to fame is as the home and headquarters of the world famous outdoor stores of LL Bean. Throughout the village LL Bean has scattered a number of different large outlets; each specializing in a different offering: apparel, outdoor equipment, home goods, etc.
We spent a night in Freeport at the absolutely wonderful Nicholson Inn Bed and Breakfast. This beautiful colonial residence, surrounded by a white picket fence, offered secure off-street parking for my Harley, and beautifully-appointed period style guest rooms with private baths. When we came down to breakfast in the morning we were overwhelmed by the sweet aroma of homemade Belgian waffles served with a hand crafted fruit compote and real whipped cream…served with the obligatory fresh-squeezed orange juice. When I opted for “just coffee” my hosts wouldn’t hear of it. They immediately went back into the kitchen and prepared a wonderful omelet to conform to my chosen style of low carbohydrate eating. Two thumbs up for the absolutely lovely accommodations and the truly caring hospitality displayed by our hosts.
Another 40 miles north on US 1 brings you to one of my favorite spots in Downeast Maine: Boothbay Harbor. I always stay at The Fisherman’s Wharf Inn when in Boothbay Harbor. The rooms are nice enough and there is a fine restaurant and lounge on the premises. There is limited covered parking but I’ve never failed to find a spot into which I could squeeze my bike. Most importantly, the inn is located right in the heart of the town’s waterfront, and you can easily walk to all the local shops, pubs, restaurants and attractions.
One of those attractions happens to be the dock where the sailing schooner Eastwind is berthed. If you spend an evening in Boothbay I strongly suggest you take a sunset cruise with Herb and Doris; the husband & wife team that make up the Eastwind’s crew. Have no reservations about the fact that they built this boat themselves. It is one of six that they have built together; and they have sailed around the world twice with their three children.
Not only are Herb and Doris highly-capable sailors but they are well-versed in the history of Boothbay Harbor and all of Downeast Maine. You will thoroughly enjoy the experience of a romantic summer sunset cruise on the schooner Eastwind.
From Boothbay Harbor it is another 120 miles on US 1 North to the real crown jewel of downeast Maine: Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. I have visited this special area on more occasions than I can remember and I hope to present you with some of the highlights from all of those adventures, with hopes that they might help you decide what activities and attractions might interest you the most.
For starters you should know that all of Acadia National Park and the village of Bar Harbor are located on Mt. Desert Island; a land mass of 108 square miles in size…the sixth largest island in the contiguous United States, and the second largest (only to Long Island) on the eastern seaboard. It’s no wonder that I’ve been here so many times. There is just so much to explore!
Let’s start in downtown Bar Harbor, a village of approximately 5,000 residents whose main economic pursuits revolve around professional services, the hospitality industry, finance and real estate. The bustling downtown area is centered around the Bar Harbor Village Green and abounds with restaurants, souvenir shops, pubs, boutiques and the world famous Bill and Ben’s Chocolate Emporium, famous for its lobster flavored ice cream. Cruise ships arrive in Bar Harbor between the months of May and October, adding big numbers to the normal throngs of tourists.
One truly memorable meal I had in town was at The Quarterdeck Restaurant where I was served an incredible baked lobster stuffed with crab meat au gratin. Sadly, The Quarterdeck has since closed its doors, but there is no shortage of reasonably-priced lobster to be found on Mt. Desert Island; home to some of the largest lobster pounds anywhere in the world.
I recall one day on Mt. Desert Island when I had lobster for all three meals: lobster benedict for breakfast, a lobster roll for lunch and a traditional stuffed lobster for dinner. I am so thankful that I can’t, won’t and don’t eat like that any more.
Lodging on Mt. Desert Island runs the gamut from modest campsites on the outskirts of the village to luxury waterview hotels. As is my preference, I tend to seek out traditional motor court motels, my favorite in Bar Harbor being the Bar Harbor Villager; which is located just a block and a half from the Village Green…convenient to nightlife, a grocery store, a laundromat…just about everything a traveler needs.
Acadia National Park is the premier attraction on Mt. Desert Island, encompassing half of the island’s area as well as 16 outlying islands. One of the most popular spots in the park is Cadillac Mountain. At close to 1,600 feet in height (being the highest peak on the eastern coastal United States) and being at the geographical easternmost spot; the summit is the first place in the United States where one can witness the sunrise from October through March.
Watching the sunrise at Cadillac Mountain is a very popular attraction. Check the forecast sunrise time and make sure you leave your lodging early enough to reach the summit in time for the event. The road to the top of Cadillac Mountain is twisty, but well-paved and there is ample parking at the summit. Don’t expect to enjoy this spectacle by yourself. There will be a big crowd of similarly-motivated spectators for you to take a place alongside.
Another popular spot in the park is Jordan Pond. This scenic attraction is very easy to access requiring a “hike” of less than 100 yards from its dedicated parking area. My last visit to the pond was a memorable one indeed, as I arrived on the scene just as an intense thunderstorm was passing through. I managed to get my photograph and secure my expensive camera back in its waterproof case before the heavy rain arrived; but it was a nasty, wet ride back into town from there.
A major portion of the park can be enjoyed by traveling the park’s paved loop road, some of which is routed one way; which takes away the hazard of oncoming distracted drivers drifting into your lane of travel. There are numerous parking areas with very short walks to incredibly scenic spots along the rocky Atlantic coastline. Stop at as many as you can…they all offer something special to see.
There is also an extensive network of carriage roads that run through the park that are off limits to motorized vehicles; providing a wonderful experience for hikers and bicyclists.
Traveling west, and then south, out of Bar Harbor you will reach the small and scenic village of Southwest Harbor. Continue traveling to the southernmost point on Mt. Desert Island and you will find Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse. Most tourists that venture here will take a quick snapshot and leave, but the serious photographers among you will want to visit in the golden hours around sunrise or sunset for dramatic images of the beacon. A word to the wise: you’ll have to carefully make your way across some tricky rock formations to get a great view of the structure. Take your time and be careful. It’s worth the effort.
Astrophotographers are drawn into the darkness of Acadia National Park, and for good reason. On one of of my visits I arrived with the specific mission of photographing The Milky Way and was not disappointed. I was blessed with a stellar night (pun intended) with nary a cloud in the sky, under the darkness of the new moon. There are many great spots within the park from which to capture this miracle in the night skies and you may wish to hire a local guide to help you safely access them.
I had an extraordinary experience with Vincent Lawrence of Acadiaimages.com, who picked me up at my motel, guided me to various spots within the park and made sure I captured the images I set out to procure. My original plan was to follow up this outing the next night on my own; but when I saw just how dark the right areas are, and just how tricky they are to traverse, I thought better of my plan to ride my big touring bike alone into the black abyss. You’ve been warned.
There is so much more I could say about traveling along the Maine coast, but I think I’ve given you enough of a taste that you will want to go out and make some memories of your own. I hope you enjoyed this virtual visit to “The Vacation State”. Please let us know in the comments below. Be sure to bookmark this site and subscribe to Roadwork USA to receive email notifications about new posts and special offers.
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